Back

Đất thép thành đồng · A rural district named after a poisonous plant, known worldwide for what lies beneath it

Củ Chi

Long before it became synonymous with tunnel warfare, Củ Chi was simply farmland named for a plant most visitors have never heard of. This is the least urban district on this site — 70 kilometers of rice paddies, rubber plantations and riverside restaurants between here and central Saigon.

History

Củ Chi's name has nothing to do with steel or tunnels — it comes from a plant that once grew wild across this land, long before either of those associations existed.

Origins of the name

"Củ Chi" is the folk name for a strychnine tree (mã tiền, Strychnos nux-vomica) that once grew abundantly in the area — the name became an official place name in 1956, centuries after the plant itself had already given the district its informal identity.

1947–1948

Villagers begin digging the first tunnel sections in the neighboring Phú Thọ Hòa area to the southeast, part of a wider pattern of underground resistance construction that will eventually spread across the whole region.

After 1960

The tunnel network beneath Củ Chi is expanded into more than 200 kilometers of passages across three levels, the deepest reaching 8-10 meters underground — connecting villages, food stores, workshops, hospitals and command posts into a single continuous underground system.

17 September 1967

In recognition of the district's role in the resistance, Củ Chi's soldiers and residents are awarded the title "Đất thép thành đồng" — "steel land, bronze wall" — a name that has stuck to the district ever since, alongside its more literal role as the tip of what American forces called the "Iron Triangle," together with Trảng Bàng in Tây Ninh and Bến Cát in Bình Dương.

1975–1977

The war leaves much of Củ Chi's farmland cratered and contaminated with unexploded ordnance; district authorities and residents begin the long process of clearing land and restoring agriculture.

1975 (post-reunification)

Củ Chi district, previously split between Hậu Nghĩa province (Củ Chi district) and Bình Dương province (Phú Hòa district), is merged and placed under Ho Chi Minh City.

1 February 1985

Củ Chi township is established from land cut out of Tân An Hội commune, giving the district its current structure of one township and twenty communes, a layout that has remained stable since.

Two tunnel networks, two command posts

Most visitors know Củ Chi has "the tunnels" — fewer realize there are two separate, geographically distinct tunnel complexes open to the public, 13 kilometers apart, each with its own wartime chain of command.

Bến Dược, Phú Mỹ Hưng commune

Regional headquarters

This site served as the base for the Saigon–Chợ Lớn–Gia Định military zone command and regional Party committee — the larger and more senior of the two networks, with a broader complex of meeting rooms, a field hospital and workshop tunnels.

Bến Đình, Nhuận Đức commune

District headquarters

Thirteen kilometers away, this smaller network served as the base for the Củ Chi district Party committee, with its own living quarters, meeting tunnels and a dense web of connecting trenches, including a weapons workshop and display building.

The Bến Dược Memorial Temple

Phú Mỹ Hưng commune, within the Bến Dược tunnel complex

Built on the bank of the Sài Gòn River next to the Bến Dược tunnel site, this memorial temple honors soldiers and civilians from Ho Chi Minh City who died during the resistance wars. Its main hall is inscribed with tens of thousands of names, and its multi-tiered tower offers a wide view across the surrounding farmland and river — a quieter, more contemplative counterpoint to the tunnel tours that draw most visitors to this part of the district.

Places to discover

Bánh tráng-making villages

Phú Hòa Đông commune and surrounding villages

Long before it became a tourist stop, this stretch of Củ Chi was known for its rice paper — bánh tráng — hand-rolled and sun-dried by families using techniques passed down for generations. Several household workshops welcome visitors to watch the process, from stone-mill rice grinding to steaming the batter and laying the thin sheets out to dry in open-air racks.

Riverside restaurants on the Sài Gòn river

Near the Bến Dược and Bến Đình tunnel sites

Several restaurants built in traditional stilt-house style line the riverbank near both tunnel complexes, serving countryside dishes to a steady stream of day-trippers — a good place to unwind with a river view after walking through the tunnel grounds.

A story the guidebooks skim past

A district named for the wrong reason, twice over

Ask most visitors why Củ Chi is called Củ Chi, and they'll assume it has something to do with the tunnels, the war, or the "steel land" title the district earned in 1967. In fact the name predates all three by centuries — it simply comes from the mã tiền plant, popularly called củ chi, that grew wild across the area long before it had any administrative name at all. The name only became official in 1956, more than a decade before "Đất thép thành đồng" entered the district's vocabulary. Two separate reputations — one botanical, one military — now share a single three-syllable name, and almost nobody visiting the tunnels today has heard of the plant that gave the district its identity first.

Three addresses, riverside and countryside

Nhà hàng Bến Dược

~100,000–350,000 VND

Bến Dược tunnel site, Phú Mỹ Hưng commune

A wooden stilt-house restaurant directly on the Sài Gòn river, serving Southern countryside dishes like sour soup with giang leaf and clay-pot braised fish to visitors finishing a tour of the tunnels.

Nhà hàng Bến Đình

~80,000–250,000 VND

Bến Đình tunnel site, Nhuận Đức commune

Set within the Bến Đình tunnel grounds, this riverside restaurant serves regional specialties — sour soup, clay-pot fish, rice-paper-wrapped small fish, seven-course baby beef — at accessible prices for tour groups.

Roadside khoai mì and cane juice stalls

~15,000–30,000 VND

Along the roads back toward the city

Steamed cassava (khoai mì) served with a peanut-salt dip, and sugarcane juice flavored with durian, are the classic snacks travelers pick up on the drive out of Củ Chi — sold from small roadside stalls rather than any single named shop.

Getting there

Củ Chi district sits about 70 kilometers northwest of central Saigon, typically an hour to ninety minutes by car or organized tour, longer by public bus. The two tunnel sites, Bến Dược and Bến Đình, are 13 kilometers apart, so most visitors pick one rather than both.

Entrance tickets run around 20,000 VND for Vietnamese visitors and considerably more for foreign visitors; both sites are open daily.

Next